Maui Guidebook https://mauiguidebook.com Maui Guidebook Sat, 12 Aug 2023 01:04:18 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Pools of ‘Ohe’o (aka Seven Sacred Pools) https://mauiguidebook.com/road-to-hana-maui/road-to-hana-sites-to-see-maui/seven-sacred-pools/ https://mauiguidebook.com/road-to-hana-maui/road-to-hana-sites-to-see-maui/seven-sacred-pools/#comments Fri, 26 Jul 2013 10:00:48 +0000 http://smartmaui.com/wp/?p=103 Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars In a nutshell: The Pools of ‘Ohe’o are the most popular attraction in East Maui. Beautiful waterfalls and pools in an absolutely stunning setting. Easy access and full NPS facilities. Minuses: It gets very crowded as the day goes on. Access to pools is closed off frequently in wet weather. Sound-bite: “Is that guy …

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The Pools of 'Ohe'o, (HNP Kipahulu)

The Pools of 'Ohe'o, (HNP Kipahulu)

Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: The Pools of ‘Ohe’o are the most popular attraction in East Maui. Beautiful waterfalls and pools in an absolutely stunning setting. Easy access and full NPS facilities.
Minuses: It gets very crowded as the day goes on. Access to pools is closed off frequently in wet weather.
Sound-bite: “Is that guy really going to jump from there?”

2022: The Pools of ‘Ohe’o in KÄ«pahulu remain closed
2022: The Campground remains closed

Tip: Visit https://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/conditions.htm or call Call 808-572-4400 Option 3 on the day of your trip to find out if the pools are open.

Summary
Verdant and diverse, ‘Ohe’o Gulch is an idyllic valley cut deeply over countless millennia by an equally idyllic rainforest stream. The stream is punctuated regularly along its course by cascading waterfalls and plunge pools until it empties into the deep-blue Hawaiian ocean along the rugged Kipahulu coastline.

The most accessible pools are also very well suited for swimming and cliff-jumping – which is what makes this remote site among the most popular in all of Maui.

The Name
So, you’ve probably heard this place referred to by many names, and you may be asking: “Which is it? ‘Ohe’o Gulch, Haleakala National Park Kipahulu, or Seven Sacred Pools?” The proper name of this attraction is ‘Ohe’o (Oh-Hey-Oh). “Seven Sacred Pools” is a name coined decades ago by the owner of what is now Travaasa Hana (previously Hotel Hana Maui) for the purpose of marketing this deservingly spectacular (but then unknown) remote location to tourists. Since this is part of the Haleakala National Park, the NPS has also added their own name to the mix “Haleakala National Park, Kipahulu.”

Whatever you call it, this collection of (many more than seven) pools and waterfalls is absolutely spectacular!

National Park
Since ‘Ohe’o is Part of the Haleakala National Park, the fee you pay here will also get you in to the Haleakala Summit (and vice versa – so save your receipt!) Admission to the entire park is $15 for a three-day pass or $25 bucks gets you an annual pass to Haleakala, Volcanoes (Big Island) and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau (Big Island) National Parks.

There are full National Park facilities at ‘Ohe’o, including a Ranger Station (with displays and great information), campground, large paved parking lots and bathroom.

Jumping
The park has unenforced and largely ignored signage prohibiting jumping. There is a notice-board by the ranger station that contains clippings of newspaper articles documenting the many tragedies that have occurred over the years. In fact I tragically lost an acquaintance here in April 2013.

That understood, I believe a life worth living is not without risks. I pay my respect by always remembering, and explaining to others that this place, like much of Maui, is a wild and untamed place that demands respect – not taming.

If you decide to jump, keep in mind that injuries often happen at times other than the jump itself. Expect to slip on wet rocks when you’re moving around, and always know what your backup is gonna be when you lose footing, grip, etc – whether that is to hold on to an alternate anchor, or safely launch away from the rock face before that split second expires when gravity decides where you’re headed. It also should go without saying to get good information on where it is safe, understand your own limitation, and always survey the landing area first.

Aside: If you choose to jump with your jewelry on, the local guys that regularly come prospecting with snorkel gear thank you very much!

Avoiding/Minimizing the Crowd
The pools are very popular, so you should expect the place to become more and more crowded as the day progresses – and there is such a difference between a crowded ‘Ohe’o madhouse and the less crowded majesty offered to the few that get here earlier in the day.

There are a number of ways to avoid the crowds at ‘Ohe’o – all involve getting there before noon. Staying in, or along the Road to Hana (or in the campgrounds at the park) can get you there well before the afternoon rush. Another option is to get started very, very early (isn’t this your vacation?!?) and go through the back side of Haleakala. This will put you one step ahead of the critical mass of visitors all day.

All the above said, if you have only one day devoted to your Road to Hana adventure, rushing through it to get here early would be a mistake. Save enough time to do a Pipiwai Trail hike (see below) and that will get you away from the crowd at the pools 🙂

A Spectacular Hike
Another spectacular activity in the park (that doesn’t ever get madhouse crowded) is mauka the road – hiking the Pipiwai Trail which passes stunning vistas, pools, waterfalls (including the 200′ Makahiku Falls), jungle, a bamboo forest, culminating at the base of the 400′ high Waimoku Falls. (See the Pipiwai Trail and Waimoku Falls post for more detail.)

If The Drive Is Discouraging You
Some people skip this highlight of Maui because they simply can’t enjoy a day built around driving winding narrow jungle and cliffside roads. If that’s you, check out my article about Valley Isle Excursions who offers an incredible way to experience the Pools of ‘Ohe’o and the Road to Hana.

Key Info:
Mile Marker: #42* (Hana Hwy aka Hwy 31 – *After Hana markers go back down)
GPS Coordinates: 20.661458,-156.045299
Facilities: National Park Rangers, Information Facility, Camping (no add’l fee/no permit req’d), grills, picnic tables and bathrooms. No potable water is available in the park.
Fee: $15/car – NPS Info: https://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/kipahulu.htm
Get directions


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Haleakala Crater https://mauiguidebook.com/camping/haleakala-crater/ https://mauiguidebook.com/camping/haleakala-crater/#comments Mon, 28 Nov 2016 10:00:47 +0000 http://smartmaui.com/?p=1289 Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars In a nutshell: Haleakala Crater is the most popular attraction in Upcountry Maui. Stunning sunrises, panoramic out-of-this-world landscapes, birds-eye views of the Maui central valley, and flora and fauna that exist nowhere else in the world. Minuses: The air is thin, and hiking here is not for the less fit. Sound-bite: “Oh my Lord, …

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Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Haleakala Crater is the most popular attraction in Upcountry Maui. Stunning sunrises, panoramic out-of-this-world landscapes, birds-eye views of the Maui central valley, and flora and fauna that exist nowhere else in the world.
Minuses: The air is thin, and hiking here is not for the less fit.
Sound-bite: “Oh my Lord, it is cold up here!”

DETAILS:
Haleakala National Park covers the summit area of the larger of the two volcanic mountains that make up Maui. The National Park’s boundary has fingers that extend down the Hana side of the mountain, all the way to the ocean. (The entire park includes the Kipahulu area, where Ohe’o Gulch (Seven Pools) and Pipiwai Trail are found – this article includes only the Summit Area.)

The Legend of Maui

Haleakala literally means “House of the Sun.”

According to Hawaiian legend, the goddess Hina complained to her son Maui that the sun moved across the sky too fast for her tapa cloth to dry. The next morning before sunrise, Maui went to the top of Haleakala and waited in hiding. When the Sun awoke, Maui lassoed him, and beat him into submission. Maui then made the Sun an offer he couldn’t refuse: he would let the Sun go, but in return the Sun would have to cross the sky much more slowly from that day forward.

The Sun agreed, Maui released him, and we’re now blessed with long sunny days!

Host Culture

Geologically Speaking
Speaking of “crater” this is a good time to explain that the summit area is actually not a typical crater formed by volcanic activity (such as you would see on the Big Island of Hawai’i.) Haleakala Crater is so gigantic because it was formed over eons as the result of erosion of the entire volcanic mountain top. Over this period of time, smaller lava flows back-filled the eroding valley, building up the floor of what is commonly called the Haleakala Crater. The cinder cones that dot the landscape here are the last of these most recent eruptions (and these individually have true volcanic craters.)

Sliding Sands trail

A couple of hikers on Sliding Sands trail

Like the oft misunderstood prune, there has been an effort to re-brand the Haleakala Crater area something more technically accurate (dried lava-mountain?), but I think the Maui Guidebook will just call it a capital-C “Crater” (as in place name) rather than the longer-winded (and far-less recognized) “Haleakala National Park Summit Area.”

Oh, and that dried lava-mountain you’re looking at isn’t actually done erupting yet. Haleakala is dormant, and (geologically speaking) it has erupted fairly recently. You’ll hear most guidebooks quote the more “hey that’s not that long ago” date of 1790, but that date is largely based upon deductions made from a notoriously bad map maker’s map not matching the coastal lines on an accurate map. When subjected to carbon dating, the rocks from that lava flow date to the 1600’s. (I don’t know about you, but my money is on the carbon.) Haleakala is also expected to erupt several more times in the future. Since geological time is measured in the millions of years, our time on Haleakala (and Earth) is short enough that you can feel secure leaving the heat-reflective lava suit back home in the family fallout shelter.

Holua side

Holua side from Halemau’u Trail

Stuff to Remember When You Visit
Remember to bring your sunscreen, plenty of water, and something else you may have left back home: layers of warm clothing. Overnight (yeah, before sunrise) temperatures can dip below freezing. Even during the day temperatures can be cold enough for a sweatshirt, or even a jacket – especially if you’re not getting any blood moving waiting for the yellow disc to rise above the horizon. Once the sun does rise, there is less atmosphere to scatter and absorb UV rays, so the sun’s skin-burning potential is actually stronger at these higher elevations than it is at the beach.

Oh, and while we’re on the subject of the beach and ocean – if you’re a diver, the reduced pressure at the altitude of Haleakala is well below that of a pressurized aircraft. So be sure to observe degassing time rules.

Also important to remember, if you go for a hike into the Crater, the hike in is deceptively easy. The hike out is another story. The thin air and elements (sun, wind, occasionally rain) means you’ll likely take twice as much time (and way more than twice the effort) to get out than you spent hiking in.

Crater floor between Kapalaloa and Holua

Crater floor between Kapalaloa and Holua

Sunrises
Sunrise is the most popular time here. Mark Twain called it “the sublimest spectacle I ever witnessed.” Words can not do this event justice, it is a feeling to be experienced. Conditions are typically conducive to spectacular sunrises – but that doesn’t mean they’re guaranteed. Arriving here for sunrise means getting up very early. I usually suggest to friends visiting to go on their first or second morning (while their body is still on an earlier time-zone.)

Haleakala Sunrise.

Haleakala Sunrise.

Photo Credit: Ewen Roberts, licensed under Creative Commons 2.0

Sunrise Scheduling 101
1. A prior reservation is required to be admitted to the park for sunrise.
2. You want to get to the summit 20-30 minutes before the sunrise time in the table below.
3. Leave yourself an extra 15-30 minutes (depending on how far you’re driving) for slow-pokes and paying the entrance fee.
4. If you’re driving during peak traffic times (typically during daylight hours, and especially from West Maui) drive times can take longer.

Sunrise/Sunset:

Date
Rises/Sets
Date
Rises/Sets
January 1:
6:56am/6:00pm
January 15:
6:58am/6:10pm
July 1:
5:41am/7:16pm
July 15:
5:46am/7:15pm
February 1:
6:55am/6:21pm
February 15:
6:48am/6:29pm
August 1:
5:52am/7:09pm
August 15:
5:57am/7:01pm
March 1:
6:39am/6:35pm
March 15:
6:27am/6:40pm
September 1:
6:02
am/6:49pm
September 15:
6:06
am/6:33pm
April 1:
6:12am/6:49pm
April 15:
6:00am/6:49pm
October 1:
6:10am/6:19pm
October 15:
6:14
am/6:06pm
May 1:
5:50am/6:55pm
May 15:
5:42am/7:01pm
November 1:
6:20
am/5:55pm
November 15:
6:28
am/5:49pm
June 1:
5:38am/7:08pm
June 15:
5:38am/7:12pm
December 1:
6:38
am/5:47pm
December 15:
6:47
am/5:50pm
Drive Times:

Origin Drive Time (HH:MM)
Haiku 1:30
Hana 3:30
Ka’anapali 2:15
Kahului 1:30
Kapalua 2:30
Kihei 1:45
Lahaina 2:00
Paia 1:30
Wailea 2:00

(Sunrise/Sunset times are from the NPS and have been properly time adjusted for the summit.)

When the Sun Sets
A strong “second-best” next to the sunrises, sunsets are still absolutely spectacular up here. If you just find that you just can’t rationalize waking up before the crack of dawn on your vacation, hanging out for the sunset might just suffice.

Barring special closures, the park is open 24-hours a day, so you can come up here and leave any time you want.

Since there is less atmosphere up here, combined with being above turbulent atmospheric conditions, and virtually zero light pollution, the summit area of Haleakala also ranks among the very best sites in the world for viewing the night sky. Astronomers can expect to see objects up to 7th magnitude. If you don’t know what that means, magnitude is a measurement of brightness. The higher the number, the dimmer the object. Remember the bag of tools the space station astronaut accidentally let go of a few years ago? That bag of tools shines in the night sky at 7th magnitude. It is so dark up here that if you know where to look, you can literally see a backpack sized bag of tools from Haleakala lit up by the sun as it orbits Earth 174 miles above!

Silversword in bloom

Silversword in bloom.
(Photo: Forest and Kim Starr)

Flora & Fauna
Haleakala National Park has more endangered species than any other National Park in the country (including species which are not native.) The park is chock-full of facts about all the plants and creatures unique to Haleakala. If you like learning about wildlife, take the time to stop in the visitor’s center, and also to read the many educational and informational signs that the NPS has posted around the parking areas and trailheads. (You may also want to stop in the visitor’s center even if you’re just here for the views – they have one of the top drive-up Crater views.)

One of the plants which is native to only Haleakala is the Ahinahina, or Haleakala Silversword. Living only at the summit of Haleakala, the Silversword has developed some interesting adaptations for survival. One of the lesser-known adaptations is that the leaves of the Silversword form at an angle so that the older leaves focus the warming energy of the sun on to the youngest leaves. Threatened by near extinction in the 20th century, the Silversword is now considered a triumph of conservation efforts. This plant lives between 15 and 50 years, blooming only once before dying. When a Silversword goes into bloom, it puts out an impressive stalk of flowers that can be as tall as a person. The stalk contains hundreds of what look like tiny purple, wine red, or sometimes yellow sunflowers radiating in all directions. If you are hiking here in the summer, you will likely see several Silverswords in full bloom.

Nene at Holua Cabin

Nēnē munching on the grass at Holua Cabin

The nēnē is another Haleakala conservation success, although these creatures are still precariously endangered. Years of hunting by introduced species (and people), the nēnē became virtually extinct. With only 30 individuals remaining, in the 1960’s & 70’s a captive breeding program In England bred and then reintroduced the birds to Haleakala Park. Today a stable population of about 250 wild individuals populates the park, and now nēnē are sighted well outside the park.

Car strikes are a top threat to nene in the park.

Car strikes are a top threat to Nene in the park.

Many guidebooks mistakenly call the summit of Haleakala the nene’s native habitat. However, the summit area is not where these birds were once primarily found, but was chosen as a protective area to reestablish the species. A relative of the Canadian Goose, the zebra-striped birds were actually once common at much lower elevations. Since the nene evolved with no natural predators, they also lay their eggs right on the ground which makes them easy-pickens for rats, mongoose, cats and dogs.

House of the Sun (and beyond!)

Jack London wrote a spectacular account of his visit to Haleakala in 1907, as he ascends through the leeward side of Haleakala to the summit, through the crater and back down to Kaupo. The story continues tracing back along the East Maui ditch system back to civilization. Surprisingly, much of it is as accurate today as it was then.

House of the Sun in 1907

Weather
The Park Service used to offer dial-up forecasts, the phone numbers for which are still widely printed as fact in many guidebooks. Don’t bother calling these numbers, they are no more.

The NOAA offers forecasts – but keep in mind weather can change rapidly in this environment. The NOAA website will give you as accurate a forecast as you are gonna get.

Downhill Bikers starting at Haleakala Summit

Downhill Bikers starting at Haleakala Summit

Downhill Bike Tours
The Haleakala Summit is also a popular place for launching downhill bike tours. Until 2007, tour companies brought visitors to the summit for sunrise, and then launched their multi-hour downhill tour right from the parking lots. However, a string of accidents, including a fatality, caused the National Park Service to ban commercial launching of bikes within the park boundaries. You can still rent bikes from these companies and launch yourself – however this is (ironically) more dangerous than being part of a group as you don’t have a protective buffer of a tour van blocking (all but the most) aggressive drivers from passing in unsafe areas. Alternatively, the tour operators do launch from just outside the boundary of the park, but this cuts out a significant portion of the ride. Speaking as someone who once lived on Crater Road and observed many sketchy situations where lives were endangered, I would advise strongly that anyone interested in this activity a) Have been on a bike more than a couple times in the past decade, and b) become educated as to the risks, and how to minimize them.

Holua Cabin

Hƍlua Cabin

Camping & Cabins
For hikers there are three cabins and two campgrounds inside the Crater. None have electricity or potable water. All are miles from your car, and can be strenuous hikes. For non-hikers, there is also a drive-up campground outside the Crater at Hosmer’s Grove.

You may have read elsewhere that you “literally must win a lottery to rent the cabins.” This is a bit of sensationalized exaggeration combined with outdated information. Cabin reservations, and current booking schedule, are now handled online at here – this is great news for the chronically unlucky: the only luck involved is that no one has beat you to your dates. Operated by the NPS, each cabin can accommodate up to 12 hikers and rent is a steal at $75 per night.

Waikamoi Preserve
Just inside park entrance alongside Hosmer Grove is the Waikamoi Preserve. This place is spectacular. I intend to do a full-page writeup in the future. The Nature Conservancy manages this fenced-off protected habitat of native cloud forest, and it is off-limits except to those on special hikes led by naturalists. Call 808-572-4459 to find out how you can join a group to glimpse of pre-Western-contact Hawai’i that very few will ever see.

More Info at the Park
There are programs ranging from 15-minute talks to half-day naturalist guided hikes offered most days of the week. You can just stop in the Visitor Center or call – the park phone number is 808-572-4400.

The National Park Service has some informative summaries of the park on their website. Lots of great info is also available in the Visitor’s Center, from both highly knowledgeable park staff, displays, and informational literature.

View an NPS map of Haleakala National Park on the NPS site.
Download a PDF trail map from the NPS.

Key Info:
Location:
GPS Coordinates: 20.712245,-156.249962
Facilities: National Park Rangers, Visitor’s Center, Camping (both tent and cabin), grills (Hosmer), picnic tables (Hosmer) and toilets. (No potable water.)
Phone: 808-572-4400
Fees: $30 per vehicle – NPS Info: https://www.nps.gov/hale/planyourvisit/summit-area.htm
Get directions


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Big Beach https://mauiguidebook.com/beaches/makena-big-beach-oneloa/ https://mauiguidebook.com/beaches/makena-big-beach-oneloa/#comments Tue, 11 Nov 2014 10:00:48 +0000 http://smartmaui.com/?p=1160 Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars In a nutshell: Big Beach is a beautiful, long, wide, undeveloped sandy beach. Impressive, with huge views and a large shore-break. Big Beach is a must-see. Minuses: A wicked shore-break exists here when the surf is up that can be dangerous for the inexperienced. Sound-bite: [monster crashing wave] Video credit: filmed by my buddy …

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Makena Big Beach

Big Beach is long, wide, beautiful, and extreme.

Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Big Beach is a beautiful, long, wide, undeveloped sandy beach. Impressive, with huge views and a large shore-break. Big Beach is a must-see.
Minuses: A wicked shore-break exists here when the surf is up that can be dangerous for the inexperienced.
Sound-bite: [monster crashing wave]


Video credit: filmed by my buddy Everett Peacock

DETAILS:
One of the most outstanding beaches in Maui. Big Beach is well over a half a mile long, and is also uncharacteristically wide by Maui standards. That means loads of real estate to stake out your claim, and this beach, while always drawing lots of people – is never so crowded as to be packed.

Big Beach is not the official name of this beach – but it is the name which it is most well known by. Other names for this beach are: Makena Beach and Oneloa Beach

Let me start by saying this: don’t let the warnings below scare you off – even if you don’t swim well, this is not a beach to miss from sightseeing standards alone.

ign on the lifeguard stand warns people not to go in unless they are experienced using this beach.

Sign on the lifeguard stand warns people not to go in unless they are experienced using this beach.

Big Beach has a significant on-shore break that can be downright brutal when there is a large south swell. This is never a beach that is safe for small children or inexperienced swimmers. Adults might want to think twice during high surf, as well.

Lifeguard stand

Lifeguards!

In recent years three lifeguard stands were added. If any beach on Maui should have had lifeguard stands, this is it. This is one point glossed over in most guidebooks, and is very important that visitors know: the waves here are often big, and powerful. The shore break crashes right at the water’s edge, and you should always enter the ocean here cautiously. If in doubt, consult a lifeguard.

Yeah, this guy stuck the landing. 10.0!

Yeah, this guy stuck the landing. 10.0!

When the surf is up, you’ll also be front-row to the most extreme boogie boarding you’re likely to see during your visit. The photos below were taken during the tail-end of a receding south swell.

Break time

“Break time”

There are also a handful of food vendors that operate out of trucks inside and just outside the park. Jawz Tacos is usually in the parking lot and you really can’t do wrong with them, they’re particularly ono.

Access to Little Beach, perhaps the most famous nude beach on Maui, is from Big Beach. (see the Little Beach page, which also has a nice helicopter-shot video of both beaches.)

 

Video: Ocean Kayak POV

Key Info:
Location: Makena Alanui Rd., (4 Mi S of Grand Wailea Resort)
GPS Coordinates: 20.631901,-156.447265
Facilities: Bathrooms, lifeguards, picnic tables, parking is $5 for non residents.
Get directions


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Hamoa Beach https://mauiguidebook.com/beaches/road-to-hana-beaches/hamoa-beach/ https://mauiguidebook.com/beaches/road-to-hana-beaches/hamoa-beach/#comments Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:46:12 +0000 http://mauiguidebook.com/?p=7211 Rating: 4.97 out of 5 stars In a nutshell: A beautiful crescent beach with a reliable surf break. Minuses: Currents can be strong. Sound-bite: “Am I sticking out too far in the road?” Summary This beach is often ranked up there with the famous beaches in the resort areas of Maui, and deservingly so. A postcard-perfect 100′ wide by 1000′ …

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Rating: 4.97 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: A beautiful crescent beach with a reliable surf break.
Minuses: Currents can be strong.
Sound-bite: “Am I sticking out too far in the road?”

Hamoa Beach

Hamoa Beach

Summary
This beach is often ranked up there with the famous beaches in the resort areas of Maui, and deservingly so. A postcard-perfect 100′ wide by 1000′ long crescent.

Hamoa Beach is surrounded by cliffs, with two points of public access – stairs leading down from the hotel shuttle dropoff and a small service road at the other end. (walk, don’t drive on this)

Hamoa Beach is also a popular surf break – in fact this break has been surfed by Hawaiians since ancient times. Boogie boarding and bodysurfing are also popular here. Snorkeling can be good around the left of the cove, however this beach is exposed to open ocean; be aware that powerful currents and surf can often be present – especially toward the ends of the beach.

This beach was sort-of taken over by Hotel Hana Maui in the 1930’s – in fact they are the ones that started calling it Hamoa (it used to be called Mokae.) They maintain the beach and landscaping, provide guests with shuttle service, beach chairs and accessories, and have additional facilities for guests. It used to be you would find primarily hotel guests and a few local residents here, but in recent years many other folks have found Hamoa.

Parking can be less than simple on nice days, as there is only on-street parallel parking, and the road is narrow.

Mokae Cove has another beach just to the south. If seas are calm, you can swim around the south point and you’ll probably be the only one there.

Key Info:
Location: Haneo’o Rd (Loop road; access @ Hana Hwy mm 50.1 & 49.1)
GPS Coordinates: 20.718954,-155.987449
Facilities: Showers, bathrooms, other facilities for Hotel Hana Maui guest use.
Get directions


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Wai’anapanapa State Park https://mauiguidebook.com/camping/waianapanapa-state-park/ https://mauiguidebook.com/camping/waianapanapa-state-park/#comments Wed, 16 Sep 2015 10:00:42 +0000 http://mauiguidebook.com/?p=1602 Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars In a nutshell: Spectacular views of rugged shoreline, sea arches, black sand beach, and more. Minuses: Swimming is often marginal. Sound-bite: “Sir, you should probably stand back from that blowhole.” (…wait for it…) Note: The park now requires reservations for entry and parking, which can be made here. DETAILS: Simply stated, Wai’anapanapa State Park …

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Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Spectacular views of rugged shoreline, sea arches, black sand beach, and more.
Minuses: Swimming is often marginal.
Sound-bite: “Sir, you should probably stand back from that blowhole.” (…wait for it…)

Note: The park now requires reservations for entry and parking, which can be made here.

DETAILS:
Simply stated, Wai’anapanapa State Park is among the very best of the Road to Hana sites. It offers outstanding nearly 360-degree sweeping panoramic views. On land, the hills and valleys of green jungle give way to rugged and dramatic black basalt lava coastline. Out to sea, the deep blue ocean and white cresting waves are dramatically blasted into spray and mist as they pound against the jagged cliffs. This place looks like a living postcard from heaven.

Far end of black sand beach

The far end of black sand beach

While a fair amount of people stop here, most do the “park, snap photo, see the black sand, leave” thing, so it is rarely crowded, and what looks like full parking, turns over quickly and without much waiting. There are also plenty of friendly visitors at the most convenient overlooks who you can enlist to snap the perfect postcard photo of you and your honey in front of the heavenly backdrops.

Besides the outstanding scenery there are hikes, easy walks, a blowhole, a black sand beach (and several black-boulder beaches), ocean caves, sea arches, islets, cliff diving, fresh water pools, pre-contact archeological remnants, camping, cabins and more. [stops, takes breath…] Whew! With so much packed in one stop, Wai’anapanapa should be a “must see” destination on practically every Road to Hana trip. (It always is on mine…)

The name Wai’anapanapa means “glistening water”, and while it easily could refer to the beautiful ocean vistas that grace this area, the Hawaiian word specifically applies only to fresh water. One scholar of Hawaiian history told me that it refers to a specific spot within a nearby stream where the features of the stream cause sunlight to reflect in such a way that there is an unusual glistening effect. Others believe it refers to the crystal clear waters in the anchialine pools found in the park’s caves. But any way you slice it, there is no shortage of glistening water in Wai’anapanapa!

Most of the black sand beach is actually made of black pebbles.

Most of the black sand beach is actually made of black pebbles.

Black Sand Beach (Pa’iloa Beach)
The Black Sand beach at Wai’anapanapa is the biggest draw for visitors – there is something about black sand that fascinates folks. Most of this beach is actually less like “sand” and more like “small black pebbles”, so this isn’t a beach you’ll want to lay out on. And unless you know the conditions well, surf can often be too strong for casual swimmers and poor swimmers will not be treated kindly. This area is also frequented by jellyfish and Portuguese man o war. That said, even during rough surf, there are always those that consider themselves uniquely qualified – and you’ll likely see one or two of these weekend warriors impressing themselves here.

Waianapanapa Black Sand Beach with a crowd

On calm ocean days, visitors tend to linger on the black sand beach longer and it can get a bit crowded.

There is also a cool little cave here that the ocean laps up into. To find the cave, go to the right side (as you face the ocean) and look for a small hole in the cliff wall. Duck down and go in – soon the ceiling opens up to allow you to stand. You’ll see some holes in the ceiling which allow light through, and the other end of the cave opens into the ocean. If you’re really adventurous, you can climb through one of the further large holes to pop out on the cliff outside.

Waianapanapa Sea Arch

Waianapanapa Sea Arch (foreground) and sea cliff leaping point (Y shaped rock in foreground)

Cliff Jumping
You also might see some daring folks jumping form one of the the islets that towers in the bay just east of the black sand beach. For those considering participating, the biggest deciding factor here is your swimming ability and the surf – as long as the ocean is calm, I don’t think you’re taking unseen risks (assuming you look well before you leap.) Since the water is clear when the ocean is calm, you can probably see hazards in the water. As the surf gets rougher, you won’t be able to see where it is safe to jump, and risks of “extreme exfoliation” will become proportionally greater as you try and climb out of the ocean on to that giant jagged pumice stone.

What are Anchialine Pools?

An anchialine pool is a land locked body of water with a subterranean connection to the ocean. Typically, water near the surface is fresh water, becoming brackish with depth as salt water intrudes from the ocean connection at sea-level. Depending on the site, it is sometimes possible to access the deeper saline water directly in the anchialine pool or other times by cave diving.

In Hawaii, the pools are home to ‘opae’ula, a native shrimp. They reproduce in the subterranean portion of the pool, only to be seen in rare occasions (see legend below.)

Unbelievably, ‘opae’ula can live for as long as 20 years in captivity, and since they are very easy to care for, they are popular pets sold in pet stores all over Hawaii. Due to their largely subterranean life, it is unknown how long they live in their natural habitat.

Historical & Geological Tidbits

Anchialine Pool Caves
Update: The loop trail to the caves has been closed, and half of the loop is gone, overcome by hau. This was a very special spot, perhaps what the entire park is named for, and I hope they find a way to reopen it. I have left the text below for those who are interested.

If you follow the trail counter-clockwise you will follow stone steps down through a cut-out in an otherwise impenetrable thicket of hau and come to an open cave area. This first pool has somewhat stagnant water that is shallow and not suitable for swimming. Continue along the trail, you’ll go up some steps this time, and you will come to a short trail to the left that leads to the second pool.

The water here is crystal-clear, clean, and spring-fed. It is also relatively cold (though not unbearably so.) Like pulling off the wax for your bikini-line, the best way into a cold pool is the fast and decisive way! There is the perfect jump-off point for such an entry right in front of you. But the highlight here isn’t the swimming or jumping, but the hidden caves just under what appear to be the main caves walls. (Hope you brought your flashlight?!)

The Legend of the Wai’anapanapa Caves

Once upon a time, a Hawaiian princess named Popoalaea fled from her cruel husband, the chief Kakae. She hid on the ledge just inside the underwater entrance to this cave. A faithful serving maid sat across from her fanning the princess with a feather kahili, a symbol of royalty.

Noticing the reflection of the kahili in the water, the chief Kakae discovered Popoalaea’s hiding place and killed her. At certain times of the year, tiny red shrimp appear in the pool, turning the water red. Some say it is a reminder of the blood of the slain princess.

As told on park sign that was once outside the caves

Host Culture

The water level fluctuates with the ocean tides, so depending on your timing you may have visual hints as to where the caves are. If not, you’ll have to duck your head just below the water as you enter them. Having a flashlight is optimal, because depending on the time of day (earlier is better) the caves get quite dark just beyond the openings. The larger cave is directly across from the jumping platform.

If you brought a flashlight, you’ll be able to see several caves, including the largest, complete with the legendary princess rock seat, and the seat of her maid. Like most everything in Maui, nothing is roped off or protected – so feel free to sit like a princess. (You’ll find Hawaiian Princesses were clearly less fussy about seating than their picky European counterparts!)

Back in the main cave, there is a second, more narrow cave (to the left of the princess cave) that snakes back a bit, terminating in a man-sized opening into another larger cave. I have heard form several sources (and watched a few pass though over the years) that you can go beyond that pool as well, but a less claustrophobic spelunker/diver is going to have to verify that one – or perhaps I’ll get a bit crazier and pass through it one of these days!

Blowhole
The blowhole is a bit further east on the paved path from the overlook for the islet above.

A blowhole is hole in the ground that connects to an underground, partially submerged ocean cave. The cave and opening are shaped in such a way that when the ocean rises or waves crash into it, a jet of water and air is violently forced out through the hole. Some blowholes are regular and very impressive. This blowhole is not a regular, and only delivers sound and small sprays most of the time. But when the surf and tide is right (like when I took this photo sequence) this blowhole can become impressive.

Couple gets soaked by blowhole

These guys ignored my pleas to move back from the blowhole. Fortunately they weren't on the edge looking in when this hit!

Warning – begin safety lecture: Now, please don’t be one of the idiots in the picture! Stay back a bit – oh, and never put your head directly above or into the hole! Now, to be fair, the guys in the photo were outside of the “dangerously close” zone – all they got was a complete soaking. But the point is, they had no idea what all the fuss was about when I tried explaining they should move- they watched what they thought was a wimpy bubbler of a blowhole bubble up and lightly mist a bunch of times and deduced it was nothing to avoid, shrugging off my warning. Now these warnings may sound silly – but living on the real-end of paradise can look quite different than the visiting end – just be sure to keep your head on your shoulders. End lecture

North trail

North trail

Hikes
There are two main hikes you can take from Wai’anapanapa. Both are on the King’s Trail.

East toward Hana: This trail starts with the paved walkways, and passes a Hawaiian cemetery and then the blowhole as it proceeds east. You can make this as short as you want, or up to a five-mile hike. After the blowhole you’ll pass through a grove of native hala trees. After about 3/4 of a mile you’ll reach the Ohala Heiau (there is a sign.) Be mindful that it is disrespectful to climb on the heiau or touch offerings that may be found. Many visitors are not aware that it is also considered disrespectful for them to stack stones or create their own offerings.

The King’s Trail

The King’s Trail was a footpath built in pre-contact Hawai’i for the ali’i (royalty) and royal messengers – primarily so that the king could survey his lands. Some historians believe the King’s Trail circumscribed the entire island of Maui, a significant accomplishment for the time.

Believed to have been begun by King Kahekili, it was completed around 1550 by King Pi’ilani – the latter king’s name is memorialized in the two main highway names for South and West Maui. Much of the original trail has disappeared over the hundreds of years, but some fragments remain and have been restored.

Host Culture

There are also burial mounds (known and unknown) all around this area. Unlike must culturally significant areas of archeological value you may have visited elsewhere, much of the Hawaiian historical remnants on Maui remain unmarked and unprotected. It is important that you do not disturb any rocks in these areas for this reason – especially if they appear in mounds, stacks or other man-made formations.

After the heiau, the trail continues on toward Kainalimu Bay. The trail is deteriorated and hiking quickly shifts form easy to strenuous. This is the point where most choose to turn back.

If you are prepared for a strenuous hike, you can continue on. At points now the trail will become difficult to trace. One of the methods you can employ to find the trail is to look for the tell-tail smooth rocks inlaid into the rough ‘a’a lavarocks. These are remnants of the original King’s Trail, and when you spot them, you know you’re on the right path. As you continue you’ll be rewarded with impressive lava spires that twist up to the sky, and the ocean views continue to be highly dramatic.

As you hike further you will notice the lava has changed from ‘a’a (like piles of propane grill rocks) to pahoehoe (smoother sheets or “sculpted” flows) and the trail becomes indistinguishable. The trick here is to look for the rock piles that have been placed to mark the trail – follow from pile to pile through the pahoehoe. This area has many lava tubes and caves – you should be somewhat careful when walking around as some areas may be just a thin, crumbling sheet above a cave.

After the lava, at around 2 1/2 miles you’ll pass the “Waianapanapa 3 miles” sign (yeah, I know…) and you’ll come to a green jungle gulch. Follow the trail into the gulch, and down to Kainalimu Bay. You’ll usually have the bay practically all to yourself – so enjoy!

Unless you don’t care about getting your car and the practicality of continuing on, this is probably the turn-back point. Even if you’d like to continue your coastal King’s Trail trek, you should seriously consider heading back on the trail to Wai’anapanapa and driving your car somewhere closer, like Hana Bay.

North toward Hana Airport: this section of the King’s Trail is called Kipapa O Kihapi’ilani Trail. The trail is somewhat strenuous and 2.75 miles round-trip. Noted sites on this portion of trail: Kapukaulua burial site, two black rock coves, a large lava tube, ruins, and Pukaulua Point which is the site of a heiau and burial mounds. The original trail passed through the area that is now the Hana Airport, so, as you can imagine, nowadays the trail ends abruptly at the airport security fence.

To begin on this trail, go to the North (far) end of the black sand beach, look for the trail, and continue to the black-stone cove just adjacent. At this point where to continue on the trail will become apparent. A bit further the trail will fork, the right fork soon takes you to the Kapukaulua burial site. Backtracking to take the left fork continues the trail. The trail continues on to a second cove. The cove itself is part of the trail, and the trail picks up toward the other side.

If Driving The Road Is Going To Stop You
For some people a day of planned around driving a windy narrow jungle road doesn’t sound like fun. If that’s you, take a peek at my article about Valley Isle Excursions – a great local company that offers reasonably priced small guided van tours packed with so much information and aloha. Don’t skip visiting this treasure while you’re here!

Key Info:
Mile Marker: #32 (Hana Hwy aka Hwy 360)
GPS Coordinates: 20.788616,-156.003687
Facilities: camping, cabins, picnic tables, bbq’s, bathrooms, showers.
State of Hawaii DNLR page where you can book the cabins.
Get directions


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Black Rock https://mauiguidebook.com/beaches/black-rock/ https://mauiguidebook.com/beaches/black-rock/#comments Tue, 23 Jun 2009 23:56:12 +0000 http://smartmaui.com/?p=1253 Rating: 4.96 out of 5 stars In a nutshell: Black Rock is at the north end of Ka’anapali Beach, and is a great place to cliff-jump into the ocean, and snorkel. Minuses: The uncoordinated may experience an up-close once-in-a-lifetime lava experience. Sound-bite: “Wooohoooo!” [SPLASH!] Also known as Pu’u Keka’a. DETAILS: Black Rock was formed from one of the last-gasp lava …

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Rating: 4.96 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: Black Rock is at the north end of Ka’anapali Beach, and is a great place to cliff-jump into the ocean, and snorkel.
Minuses: The uncoordinated may experience an up-close once-in-a-lifetime lava experience.
Sound-bite: “Wooohoooo!” [SPLASH!]

Black Rock

Black Rock is great fun to jump from!

Also known as Pu’u Keka’a.

DETAILS:
Black Rock was formed from one of the last-gasp lava flows on this side of the island. It is a rocky outcrop at the far North end of Ka’anapali Beach and blocks off access (from the beach) to the lesser-known Ka’anapali Resort beach called Kahekili Beach Park.

The Hawai’ian name for Black Rock is Pu’u Keka’a, and ancient Hawaiians believed that this was the place where their spirits went to jump off to join ancestors forever. Unlucky souls who could not be shown the way by their family ‘aumakua (guardian animal spirit), would wander and attach themselves to rocks in the area. This is likely where the “it is bad luck to take a Hawai’ian lava rock” superstition comes from.

Kaanapali beach facing black rock in the background.

Kaanapali beach facing black rock (in background.)

Nowadays Black Rock is used by the younger generation as a leaping-off point for fun in the ocean. There is also a resort-sponsored sunset torch lighting (that also ends with a jump.)

Snorkeling and diving are also excellent all around this point. Weaker swimmers should beware that the water becomes deep quickly, and strong currents can occur in this location. See the Ka’anapali Beach page for more information about the beach.

Key Info:
Location: At the far north end of Ka’anapali Beach.
GPS Coordinates: 20.926540,-156.696807
Facilities: Resort owned beach showers and most shop bathrooms are publicly accessible.
Get directions


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Beachfront Bliss https://mauiguidebook.com/mauis-best-vacation-rentals/kamaole-one-6/ https://mauiguidebook.com/mauis-best-vacation-rentals/kamaole-one-6/#respond Fri, 16 Feb 2018 00:02:51 +0000 http://mauiguidebook.com/south-maui/vacation-rentals-south/maui-hill-97-copy/ Amenities: | Fully Equipped Kitchen | Direct Beachfront | Ocean Views | Sunset Views | Central A/C | Dishwasher | Lawns & Gardens | HDTV | Cable | WiFi | BBQ | Washer/Dryer | Free Parking | Towels & Linens | Beach Accessories | Walk to Restaurants & Shops | Summary Direct beachfront unit in very small (12 unit total) …

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Amenities:
| Fully Equipped Kitchen | Direct Beachfront | Ocean Views | Sunset Views | Central A/C | Dishwasher | Lawns & Gardens | HDTV | Cable | WiFi | BBQ | Washer/Dryer | Free Parking | Towels & Linens | Beach Accessories | Walk to Restaurants & Shops |

Views!

Views!

Summary
Direct beachfront unit in very small (12 unit total) condo building. Unit 6 is an end unit, tucked away on the quiet Northern side of the building for the most privacy. This is the way it used to be before Kihei was developed; Kamaole One is an extremely rare opportunity to be right on the beach in Maui without hundreds of neighbors. What an amazing value for such a low-key oceanfront setting!

Lanai

Lanai with breathtaking panoramic beach, ocean and neighbor island views

Direct beachfront is quite limited in Maui, and most of what is available for development has large condos and hotels lining the shoreline. This is a rare exception remaining from a bygone era. There is virtually nothing beachfront that is this exclusive and private anywhere close to this price range on Maui. If this unit is available during your stay do not hesitate to snap it up!

Master bedroom

Master bedroom

Newly remodeled with new appliances, hardwood floors, granite countertops, deep soaking tub – just to mention a few. The lanai has a 180-degree unobstructed view of the beach, ocean and neighbor islands; sunsets from your lanai are to die for! Step right out onto the beach when it’s beach time, and conveniently rinse off with the private outdoor shower and stroll back in when it’s time for a snack!

Kitchen

Kitchen

Details
What a hidden treasure, tucked away right on the more private, tree-lined Northern end of Kamaole Beach Park One.

This oceanview two bedroom two bath accommodates up to six guests with King bed and ensuite in the master bedroom, two Twin beds in the second bedroom (beds can be pushed together to make a King bed upon request), and in the livingroom two sofabeds with Full size memory foam mattresses. Impeccably clean and well maintained, Beachfront Bliss definitely lives up to its name!

Lanai view

Lawn and walkway to beach (taken from your lanai)

The kitchen has been recently remodeled in granite and stainless steel. Fully equipped for convenience or all out meal preparation – one counter faces the dining area and has barstools to make an informal snacking and socializing area. There is additionally a gorgeous oceanview dining table for sit-down meals as well.

Location
Kamaole I Beach Park is mostly beach park set aside from development. The exception are a few grandfathered-in home parcels sold around WWII at the northern end, and a large condo building at the far southern end separating Kamaole I beach from Kamaole II beach. This Northern end is called Charley Young Beach by the locals, and you’ll now find just a handful of exclusive multi-million dollar homes and the low-key 12-unit Kamaole One complex. The long sandy beach is perfectly family friendly, with easy entry into the water and powdery soft sand for lounging.

Dining room

Dining room

Kamaole Beach Park is in the heart of Kihei. Besides wonderful beaches, Kihei has quite a diverse choice of restaurants – from ultra-casual to 5-star casual (everything is casual in Maui!) There are plenty of shopping options in the area as well, and you can easily walk to many shops and restaurants from the unit. Kihei is also quite centrally located for fun adventures all around the island, and an easy-access 20 minute drive from the airport.

Kamaole Beach One is the first of the three beaches that make up Kamaole Beach Park – 1.5 mile of sandy beaches; Boogie-boarding, snorkeling, full facilities & family friendly.

Beautiful Kamaole I beach fronting the condo

Beautiful Kamaole I beach fronting the condo

There are too many other beaches to list that are a very short drive in the area – but these four beaches are additional favorites within a 2-5 minute drive from your front door:

Keawakapu Beach – A much loved long sandy beach; Uncrowded, rent ocean gear, snorkeling. A favorite.
Wailea Beach – Consistently rated one of the best beaches in the world.
Ulua Beach – Quarter-mile long pocket of sandy beach; great for snorkeling & learning scuba.
Mokapu Beach – Good swimming, boogie boarding and excellent snorkeling. Often uncrowded.

The rest of South Maui’s wonderful beaches, including Big Beach are all under 15 minutes away.

More photos below the map.

 

From the couch looking in

From the couch looking in

New furniture

New furniture

Living room

Living room

Living room from dining

Living room

Master Bathroom

Master Bathroom

Master Bathroom

Master Bathroom

Bar seating at kitchen

Kitchen has bar stools at counter for snacks.

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen view

Kitchen view

Looking in from dining

Looking in from dining

Dining and kitchen

Dining and kitchen

Living, dining and kitchen

Living, dining and kitchen

Master bedroom king bed

Master bedroom king bed

Master bedroom king bed

Master bedroom king bed

Master bedroom

Master bedroom

Second bedroom has two twin beds

Second bedroom has two twin beds (can be made into King upon request)

Hall bathroom w/deep soaking tub

Hall bathroom w/deep soaking tub

Lanai

Lanai

Lanai view

Lanai view

Lanai view

Lanai view

Washer, Dryer & Supplies

Washer, Dryer & Supplies

Outdoor shower (taken from your lanai)

Outdoor shower (taken from your lanai)

Beautiful Kamaole I beach fronting the condo

Beautiful Kamaole I beach fronting the condo

Private lawn between condo and beach

Private lawn between condo and beach

Walkway to beach

Walkway from condo to beach

Private lawn between condo and beach

Private lawn between condo and beach

Convenient outdoor shower located between beach and condo

Convenient outdoor shower located between beach and condo

Grounds

Tropical grounds

Small (12-unit) private and quiet building

Small (12-unit) private and quiet building

Small (12-unit) private and quiet building

Small (12-unit) private and quiet building with an assigned private parking stall

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Lahaina Town https://mauiguidebook.com/most-popular/lahaina-town/ https://mauiguidebook.com/most-popular/lahaina-town/#comments Fri, 27 Aug 2010 10:00:53 +0000 http://mauiguidebook.com/?p=1435 💔 On August 8, 2023 Lahaina Town was tragically destroyed by fire. I am leaving the prior article describing this beloved place unchanged and unedited. 💔 Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars In a nutshell: An oddly eclectic mix of history, restaurants, T-shirt shops, fine art galleries and gold-by-the-foot, Lahaina is the quintessential “old-time-sea-town-turned-tourism” with a uniquely Maui twist. Minuses: …

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Ocean walk in Lahaina Town.

Ocean walk in Lahaina Town.

💔 On August 8, 2023 Lahaina Town was tragically destroyed by fire. I am leaving the prior article describing this beloved place unchanged and unedited. 💔

Rating: 4.95 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: An oddly eclectic mix of history, restaurants, T-shirt shops, fine art galleries and gold-by-the-foot, Lahaina is the quintessential “old-time-sea-town-turned-tourism” with a uniquely Maui twist.
Minuses: It’s crowded!
Sound-bite: “Come talk to me about “fractional ownership!”

DETAILS:
The second most visited spot in Maui, Lahaina is compact and crowded. It is also the only full-featured, walkable “down-town” you’ll find on Maui. On the surface, Lahaina will be a place not dissimilar to a popular ocean town closer to home. But under the surface of bars and trinket shops, Lahaina reveals a uniqueness not duplicated anywhere else.

Stores, stores and more stores.

Stores, stores and more stores.

The number-one attraction in Lahaina is definitely “the buzz.” Great restaurants, hoppin’ night-life, swingin’ bars – and shops featuring wares ranging form “made-in-China” trinkets to exquisite local hand crafts; from cheap jewelery to masterpieces of fine art.

For those quick to point toward commercialism as causing a loss of authenticity in this historic area, the irony would be that they’re overlooking one important fact: shopping, eating, drinking and merriment have long been a central part of Lahaina Town. Love it or hate it, the frenzy of activity is aligned with history; Lahaina has been “buzzing” since well before tourism ever washed up on these shores.

One of the 40+ fine art galleries on Front Street

One of the 40+ fine art galleries on Front Street

Art
While “the buzz” could fit into most any of your run-of-the-mill tourist towns, the over 40 fine art galleries in Lahaina are definitely a “uniquely Lahaina” touch. In fact, fine art anchors this town to a level of sophistication that would probably otherwise be lacking. While you’ll definitely find plenty of galleries that feature the works of local artists, and plenty of opportunities to view and purchase tropical and ocean genre-specific artwork, these are by no means the limit of the range of art offered. There are many well known galleries in Lahaina with branches in cosmopolitan locations across the world, and several world-renowned artists also have their own dedicated galleries on Front Street. With styles ranging from the marine life depictions of Wyland to the psychedelia of Peter Max – Lahaina is unquestionably a player on the world-stage when it comes to the exhibition and sale of fine art.

On Friday evenings between 7-10pm the galleries offer “Art Night.” Many galleries offer special events, including featuring artists in person. So if you have an interest in art – this is a great time to stroll and catch a chance to chat with some of the artists.

A view of the docking area in Lahaina.

A view of the docking area in Lahaina.

Harbor
Lahaina is also home to the primary harbor in West Maui, and is where the majority of West Maui fishing, snorkeling and whale watching tours depart. Cruise ships ferry passengers for day-trips from their anchor further out in deeper water and this is also where the Moloka’i and Lana’i ferries depart. Note: If you aren’t staying in West Maui (or using one of the ferries), Ma’alaea Harbor (and Kihei Boat Ramp) are usually better choices.

Parking
Okay, I’m mystified with the overwhelming consensus of the commercial guidebooks on this topic: unless you’re obsessed with free parking, parking complaints are waaaaay exaggerated and overdone. In fact, I’m not exactly sure what planet these guys are from calling it difficult to park. The bottom line is, that unless you’re too cheap to pay $5-10 to put the car in a parking lot, your only parking difficulty will likely be in choosing which of the over fifteen lots in just a few square blocks to park in.

Yeah, this many parking lots:

View Lahaina Parking Lots in a larger map

My advice is to not even bother looking for a free parking spot. If you decide to attempt to scout out a free spot anyway, you can likely expect not to find one for a while (experiencing the joy of Lahaina congestion in the process.) When you find your coveted spot, you’ll discover there is a time limit – between 30-minutes and three hours. If you push it a nanosecond past the time limit, you’ll also discover how on-the-ball enforcement is, and that the parking ticket costs a whole lot more than the lot would have.

Now, if we want to start complaining, lets talk about driving to, through or around Lahaina. If there is an accident, or a big event, that, my friends, can be an absolute nightmare worthy of full-tilt road rage.

Historical Value
Under the already uniquely eclectic surface, Lahaina also has an equally rich and varied history. It is best known for its role as a significant Pacific whaling port. But whaling is only a small slice of Lahana’s history.

Lahaina has been central to key western-introduced industries such as whaling, pineapple and sugar. Lahaina has also been a place where immigrants landed; a place with ancient sacred grounds; a capital of a united Hawai’i; and a place where missionaries came to impose their ideals on a native people and visiting sailors with equal fervor. Lahaina has literally been everything from a place of battle, destruction and tragedy, to a place of royalty, celebration and pleasure.

Few visitors come to Lahaina for anything but what is right on the surface, and the majority of the cultural and historical value here has not yet been presented in a way that engages those not looking for it. The result is that unless you seek it out, the history here beyond building facades and plaques ends up being barely perceptible to most.

But that does not mean history and culture aren’t right there, waiting to be coaxed out – because they are. But what it does mean is that if experiencing these things is what you’re after, you’re likely going to have to set out to find them.

Click the image to view a closeup (that you can read!)

Click the image to view a closeup (that you can read!)

The easiest way for visitors to get a genuine balanced idea of what cultural richness lies below the bohemian surface is to contact Maui Nei and get in on one of their guided Lahaina tours. These folks are also closely affiliated with the restoration of Moku’ula – one of the most important cultural sites in Hawaii, whose restoration has just begun. I believe once restored, Moku’ula will write another chapter in Lahaina history, and become a significant draw in its own right. Maui Nei tours of Lahaina cost $39/Adults; $25/Kids 12-17 and proceeds go to the foundation. 808-661-9494.

If you’re the self-guided type, a photograph of the walking tour sign/map is next to this text (click through for highest resolution) and short descriptions of the most popular sites are included below. Many of these sites are little more than a footnote in history – so you may have a difficult time finding much information on them. If you have a strong interest in this kind of history, you can also stop the Lahaina Visitor Center in the Lahaina Courthouse (next to the Banyan Tree) and grab a similar map and a pamphlet titled Lahaina O Mo’olelo. (Also available at various kiosk locations around Lahaina – check the sign/map photo for kiosk locations as well.)

You can also visit the Lahaina Restoration Foundation “Historical Sites” page. I’ve linked appropriate items below. The Friends of Moku’ula website site has a small set of archives available on specific sites as well.

1. Waine’e Ahupua’a
An Ahupua’a is a method of land division used by the pre-contact Hawaiians who were keenly aware of the interconnection and reliance of the various parts of the watershed. They divided land in pie-slice-like divisions from the top of the mountain to the sea, and each slice is called an Ahupua’a. The Waine’e Ahupua’a was historically the seat of the Ali’i (royalty) in Lahaina and contains important pre-contact cultural treasures, most notably Moku’ula.

2. Maui’s Royal Family
3. Sacred Land of Royalty
4. Sea of Riches
5. Armory Hall
6. Pa Halekamani
7. Lahaina Fire Station

8. Canal & Marketplace
Called Rotten Row for the shifty practices of the day, this place marks where one specific part of canal was built and a marketplace stood where trading was done between citizens and ships. It should be noted that dating from pre-contact times there were also a substantial canals inland which were both used to deliver water to the Lahaina area, and also later used for transportation to the marketplace. The canal was filled in around the same time as Moku’ula.

9. Lele Window to the World
Lele was the Hawaiian pre-contact name for Lahaina. Lahaina was where Maui had contact with the outside world.

10. Command Post of Kamehameha
11. East-West Trading

Old Fort

Old Fort

12. Old Fort Ruins
This is the minimally reconstructed corner of the Old Fort which dominated Lahaina Town from 1832 to 1854. It was constructed of coral blocks and sand, and at one time had 47 canons (salvaged from sunken vessels) atop its walls. Its primary use was actually as a prison, but it was also used (more for show) to protect missionaries homes from ship canon fire. Another interesting tidbit is that it has been said to have been used at dusk where a Hawaiian sentinel would “beat a drum furiously” to alert all ashore that they must return to their ships.

13. Front Street – The King’s Road

14. Old Lahaina Courthouse
Directly between the banyan tree and Lahaina Harbor, the Old Lahaina Courthouse was originally built in 1859 from salvaged materials taken from the palace of Kamehameha II. Current tenants include the Lahaina Heritage Museum and the Lahaina Arts Society. There is also a visitor’s center and public restrooms.

Part of the giant Lahaina banyan tree.

Part of the giant Lahaina banyan tree, with the Old Courthouse in background.

15. Banyan Tree
Probably the most famous landmark in Lahaina – the Banyan Tree was planted in 1873 by the Sheriff to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first Mission. The tree was brought from India, and was only 8′ high at the time of planting. It now has a dozen main trunks, and spreads over the better part of an acre.

16. Pioneer Inn & Theatre
Just North of the Banyan Tree this building was constructed in 1901 by George Freeland to house and entertain visiting sailors. It is now a Best Western and casual restaurant. The great grandson of George Freeland (who shares the same name) is also the president of the Lahaina Restoration Foundation.

17. Gilman Store, Custom & Meeting House
18. Spring House & Water Pump

19. The Richards House
Now just a marker, this indicates where William Richards’ house stood. Richards was the first Protestant missionary to Lahaina. After his missionary work, Richards left to work directly for King Kamehameha III as teacher, chaplain and translator. He later assisted in drawing up the constitution and traveled abroad as the King’s Envoy.

20. American Missionaries to Sandwich Islands

21. Baldwin House
Restored missionary era home which contains furniture, photos and artifacts of the time. Open 10-4. $7 for adults or $5 for seniors/military/kama’aina (children under 12 free.) 808-661-3262. LRS web page description

22. Masters Reading Room
Arguably called the oldest standing structure in Maui, this was originally built to be used as a lounge and reading room for sea captains. This was actually the second Masters Reading Room, and was constructed just prior to the adjacent Baldwin Home. Visitors can not enter, and this is a site to view from the outside, however there is a Hawaiian craft store called Village Gifts & Fine Arts (808-661-5199) located on the ground floor. LRS web page description

23. Missionary Influence in Lahaina
24. Lahaina Kindergarten

25. King’s Taro Patch
Quite unfortunately filled in years ago, this is the site of where King Kamehameha’s taro patch once was. Kamehameha worked on the Taro patch himself to teach his subjects the dignity of labor. Hopefully one day part of this this will be restored.

26. Brick Palace of Kamehaheha I
Only remnants and a marker remain – this was a simple structure built of brick in 1802 by Kamehameha I to welcome sailors. It is said to be the first western-style structure in Hawaii.

27. Hauloa Stone
At the ocean in front of the Lahaina Library, this stone in the shape of a chair (look for the brass marker) and was believed to have healing properties by the ancient Hawaiians. Ali’i (royalty) are also said to have given birth on this stone.

28. Lahaina Ice Company
29. Midnite Inn
30. U.S. Pacific Fleet
31. The 1919 Fire/Bank Building
32. Liberty Restaurant/The Blue Max
33. The Lahaina Store
34. Yamamoto Store
35. World War II Rationing
36. Queen Theatre
37. Kidani Building
38. 1st Battalion, Maui Voulinteers
39. Seaside Inn
40. Fuji Service Station/Kimo’s

Many of these above (and other un-noted) sites center around the days of the Pioneer Mill and WWII, both of which permeate Lahiana, and Maui. Plaques at each of these stops provide short bits of information on these less popular sites of historical value.

Wo Hing Temple

Wo Hing Temple

41. Chinese Wo Hing Temple
Restored temple dating from early 1900’s. Altar and artifacts throughout. The cookhouse adjacent to the temple shows old movies of Hawaii filmed by Thomas Edison. (One fee for entry to this site and Baldwin House above.) LRS web page description

42. Japanese Fish Markets
43. Pioneer Mill Hospital

44. Seaman’s House & Hospital
Originally built by King Kamehameha III as his old-school version of a “party house.” Later it was leased to the US State Dept. to care for sick and injured sailors. One interesting note is that there is actually a human skeleton built in to the northwest corner of the structure. In pre-contact Hawaii it was ritual that when a structure was built for the home of Ali’i, a commoner would be put to death and their remains buried under the northwest support of the building. The spirit of the sacrifice was said to be bound, and would become the ‘permanent guardian’ of the home. Even though this house was built well into the period where the Hawaiian people had supposedly abandoned such customs and embraced Christianity, this fact exposes the pervasive strength that Hawaiian ritual still played at the time. LRS web page description

45. Lahaina Jodo Mission
The buildings are not generally open to tourists (but grounds are.) If you can get inside, there are stunning Buddhist works of art adorning the walls and ceiling. The grounds are home to what is often claimed to be “the largest Buddha statue outside of Japan.” It is definitely impressive and beautiful (and big) – but biggest outside of Japan?!? I mean, come on – there are Buddhas in many parts of the world that would dwarf this – clearly some other qualifications were lost playing “whisper down the lane” on this one.

46. Hale Pa’i
The name means “house of printing” and was one of the earliest LRF projects. This is a replica of a Ramage Press used in the 1800’s to print newspapers, bibles, and educational materials. The museum has artifacts on display, including old newspapers under glass. Hours are not regular, so you need to call the LRF to find out when to visit at 808-661-3262. LRS web page description

47. Seamans Cemetery
The cousin of Herman Melleville rests here, as well as other seamen.

48. Maria Lanakila Catholic Church
Built in 1873 this stone church replaced an adobe building and grass hut chapels used previously by the congregation. This is an operating church and is open to visitors and local congregants alike. Church website

49. Episcopal Cemetery

50. Hale Aloha (Protestant Church)
The LRS web page description for this one says it all.

51. Buddhist Church of the Shingnon Sect
Behind the distinctive temple facade actually stands a standard plantation-style building. This is, just as the name suggests, a Buddhist temple of the (Japanese) Shingnon Sect.

52. Luakini St/Alanui Nahi’ena’ena

53. Hale Pa’ahao (Prison)
The name literally translated means “House of Forced Detention” (commonly translated by visitor information into “Stuck in Irons House”, while I’ll admit it is far more catchy, unfortunately it isn’t as accurate a literal translation.) Most frequently used a place for Missionaries to jail rowdy sailors, this coral-brick-walled prison is one of the most popular historic sites visited. Among the things to see here is a “speaking” wax replica of a prisoner, and a list of common infractions which include drunkenness, profanity, adultery, and “furious riding” (among many other Puritanical offenses.) LRS web page description

54. David Malo’s House
Born on the big Island in the ealy 1790’s, Malo is a renowned Hawaiian scholar and philosopher who relayed much of what we know today of old Hawaii, traditions and Hula. Malo spent only a small, but critical portion of his life in Lahaina. At around 30 years old, Malo came to Lahaina to be educated at the first school in Hawaii (Lahainaluna) and was also converted to Christianity (where he took the name “David’.) Malo then moved to East Maui for his remaining years. Lahainaluna school (claimed to be the oldest school west of the Rockies) still celebrates Malo every year.

55. Hongwanji Mission

56. Waiola Church
This church has a history of destruction and rebuilding that’ll make you wonder! The superstitious might have interpreted the events as a message, but the persevering congregants simply didn’t give up. Here are the Cliff’s Notes on the history: Originally called the Waine’e Church, built in 1823, the original building lasted only three years to be lost to strong winds. The church was rebuilt and completed in 1832, but then in 1894 it burned to the ground. The church was rebuilt again, lasted another 50 some-odd years and burned once again. Again the congregants rebuilt, and in 1951 (three years time, again) the church was destroyed by “Kaua’ula” winds (fierce winds, concentrated by the mountain valley, said to happen at the death of Ali’i.) In 1954 the church finally got a bit superstitious, and changed its name to Waiola Church. So far, so good! Church website

57. Waine’e (Waiola) Cemetery
I believe the LRS sign is incorrect, as I understand it (and according to the church) the name of the cemetery did not change with the name of the church. Several members of Hawaiian Ali’i are buried here, including King Kaumualii (the last king of Kauai), Queen Kekauonohi (Kamehameha II) and Princess Nahienaena (sister of Kamehameha II and III).

58. Moku’ula Island &
59. Mokuhina Pond

Once a sacred island inside an 11-acre pond, this site is one of the most important pre-contact archeological finds and restorations in all of Hawaii. This site is currently in the long process of restoration, but when completed promises to be one of the keystone historical sights in Lahaina. I am eagerly awaiting its restoration. The Friends of Moku’ula website has lots of great information, and every visitor should consider donating to the cause.

60. Hale Piula

61. Episcopal Church
A simple and beautiful structure, the Holy Innocents’ Episcopal Church was originally in another structure built in 1872. Rebuilt in 1927 diagonally across from its original site, the new building stands on royal grounds, where Hawai‘i’s last reigning monarch, Queen Lili‘uokalani, enjoyed holidays and vacations as a child. Church website

62. Lahaina Lighthouse
Just nine feet tall when it was originally built in 1840, the lighthouse now towers at a more respectable 55′. The LRF website does a fair job describing the many incarnations of this historic lighthouse over the years.

Key Info:
Mile Marker: #20-22 between Honoapi’ilani Hwy (aka Hwy 30) & the ocean.
GPS Coordinates: 20.871845,-156.677699
Facilities: Town.
Get directions


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Village by the Sea 610 https://mauiguidebook.com/mauis-best-vacation-rentals/village-by-the-sea-610/ https://mauiguidebook.com/mauis-best-vacation-rentals/village-by-the-sea-610/#respond Fri, 13 Mar 2015 10:00:34 +0000 http://mauiguidebook.com/?p=15798 Amenities: | Fully Equipped Kitchen | Lanai | BBQ | A/C | Washer/Dryer | Dishwasher | Beachfront | Ocean Views | Cable | Internet | Ocean View Pool | Free Parking | Towels & Linens | This unit recently underwent top-to-bottom major upgrades including all new furniture including a brand new bathroom, bed with high-quality mattress, all new appliances, fixtures, …

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Living Room

Living Room

Amenities:
| Fully Equipped Kitchen | Lanai | BBQ | A/C | Washer/Dryer | Dishwasher | Beachfront | Ocean Views | Cable | Internet | Ocean View Pool | Free Parking | Towels & Linens |

Bedroom

Bedroom

This unit recently underwent top-to-bottom major upgrades including all new furniture including a brand new bathroom, bed with high-quality mattress, all new appliances, fixtures, ceiling fans, gorgeous wood tile floors and granite counters.

Main Lanai

Imagine rolling out of bed down to this view!

Summary
A nice, clean, upgraded oceanfront unit. Unit 610 is on the penthouse floor, and the ocean and sunset views from the living room and bedroom are spectacular. A really great value for the beachfront location, views, quality and price – you simply won’t find a better value on the beach.

Living Room

Living Room

The floorplan layout of Village By The Sea rooms are not long rectangles like most Kihei condos, which gives the units here a much less boxy feel than is typical. It also affords staggered lanais, so you have far more privacy when you sit outside. The prime beachfront location is also a huge bonus.

Dining Area

Dining Area

The friendly owners live in the building and are always on top of maintaining the condo and it shows.

Bathroom

Bathroom

Location
Located in Central Kihei, choosing Village By The Sea as your base will mean you’re just minutes from shops, luxury resorts, all manner of restaurants, bars, a brewpub, natural food store and supermarket. Also within minutes are services such as dive shops, ocean sports lessons and rentals, golf courses, and many of the best beaches in the world.

Queen Bed

Queen Bed

During the months from November to April, South Maui is home to migrating whales who come to birth, play and mate. Since this unit boasts exceptional panoramic unobstructed ocean views, you can even watch whales as they dramatically tail slap, blow and breach – all from the comfort of your lanai!

Pool with ocean view

Pool with ocean view

The Beach
Village By The Sea sits beachfront on Waipu’ilani Beach, a long sand and coral beach protected by reef. Another local beach a short walk is Kalepolepo Beach Park, home to culturally significant and the most accessible ancient Hawaiian fishpond in Maui. Both are great beaches of convenience for when you want to escape touristy crowds, have dinner or drinks while you watch the sunset, or strike up a down-to-earth conversation with a local family.

More photos below the map.


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Living Room

Living Room

Living Room

Living Room

Bedroom

Bedroom

Bathroom

Bathroom

Shower

Shower

Bathroom

Bathroom

Dining Area

Dining Area into Kitchen

Dining Area

Dining Area

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen

Kitchen into Dining

Livingroom

Livingroom

Nook, Dining & Kitchen

Nook, Dining & Kitchen

Nook, Dining & Kitchen

Nook, Dining & Kitchen

Livingroom Nook

Livingroom Nook

Lani

Lani

Lanai View North

Lanai View North

Lanai

Lanai

Lanai View West

Lanai View West

Lanai

Lanai

Building from lawn

Building from lawn

Building and grounds

Building and grounds

Pool with ocean view (BBQ area in foreground)

Pool with ocean view (BBQ area in foreground)

Oceanview pool

Oceanview pool & hot tub

BBQs and tables

BBQs and tables

Beachfront sand volleyball court (shuffleboard out of view.)

Beachfront sand volleyball court (shuffleboard out of view.)

Beach

The beach directly in front of property

Gardens

Gardens

Gardens

Gardens

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‘Iao Valley State Park https://mauiguidebook.com/central-maui/iao-valley-state-park/ https://mauiguidebook.com/central-maui/iao-valley-state-park/#comments Sat, 28 Jan 2017 10:00:15 +0000 http://smartmaui.com/?p=744 Rating: 4.91 out of 5 stars In a nutshell: ‘Iao Valley is a treasure that is easily accessed by anyone. While most people don’t spend an extended period of time here, it is a must-see. Minuses: Official trails are minimal. Not a whole lot to do for most visitors after you’ve seen the main attraction. Sound-bite: “One of wettest places …

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Rating: 4.91 out of 5 stars

In a nutshell: ‘Iao Valley is a treasure that is easily accessed by anyone. While most people don’t spend an extended period of time here, it is a must-see.
Minuses: Official trails are minimal. Not a whole lot to do for most visitors after you’ve seen the main attraction.
Sound-bite: “One of wettest places on earth.”

Iao Valley State Park

View looking out of the valley toward the parking lot, and Wailuku beyond. (Bonus Where’s Waldo point: Find the shaka.)

 

DETAILS:
‘Iao Valley State Park is on virtually every guidebook and tourist pamphlet’s short-list of must-see places – and for good reason. It is easily accessible by car or tour companies, has paved walkways, steps, and signage with historical information. It is also dramatically scenic and particularly well suited for older folks and kids.

The second wettest place in Hawai’i (the wettest, on Kauai, is also unofficially the wettest place on earth), the summit of the valley receives an average of over an inch of rain per day. (that isn’t an inch every day…maybe it’ll rain seven inches the day before your visit and take the rest of the week off!) Much of this water flows into the `Iao stream – and virtually every drop is drained by a massive diversion that Wailuku Water takes off just outside the park.

The main attraction here is the ‘Iao needle (Kuka’emoku) – a 1200′ (2250′ from sea level) high peak created by erosion of the softer rock around it over many millennia. In Hawai’ian culture, it is known as the phallic stone of the god of the ocean (Kanaloa.) They must not have wanted to share this view when they erected the lookout deck – because any normal person will wonder what kind of Freudian case-study thinks of a phallus when they see this scene. But if you look from a different angle (hint: parking lot) you can see a much clearer (if less impressive) view of the whole package.

Iao needle in Iao Valley State Park

Iao Needle – View from observation deck.

This valley is sacred and was kapu to all but Hawaiian royalty. The sheer, inaccessible cliffs in `Iao Valley were used as a burial site for Hawai’i’s ali'i for centuries. Ancient Hawaiian’s believed that their bones contained their mana. Desecrating or stealing bones could give power, control, and even cause harm to living descendants.

When you first enter the park you can choose to cross a footbridge or descend to an exhibition area where the park has simplistically modeled what the greater valley (just outside of ‘Iao) once was. They have constructed a hale with thatched roof common for the time, and have many examples of plants that were cultivated in pre-contact Hawai’i. The park has struggled for years with the model lo'i in this section. You may get lucky and see taro growing – though while well intentioned, these lo’i simply do not accurately portray the vast area of Na Wai Eha that once sustained tens of thousands of Native Hawaiians. (If you’re interested in taro, you can see several producing and lovingly tended examples of lo’i along the Road to Hana.)

Interpretive hale with thatched roof set in garden including many examples of plants that were cultivated in pre-contact Hawaii

Interpretive hale with thatched roof set in garden including many examples of plants that were cultivated in pre-contact Hawaii

Heading back up to the foot-bridge, you’ll typically see local kids jumping off into a small pool below. Like most teenagers, they may come off as too cool to pay attention to you, but they’re most definitely there for your attention. (There are plenty of better jumping options close by if they didn’t want a steady stream of tourists walking by as witness to their coolness!) So feel free to observe, yell some encouragement or even throw ’em a shaka!

After the bridge you have the option to go up or down. Taking the high road brings you to the `Iao Needle observation deck. Down takes you to the stream, and a short nature loop (with access to many informal trails.)

Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar - but from this angle, I think we can agree we don't have a cigar here.

Oh, now I get it…

There are trails that follow the stream and go into the valley alongside Iao stream (some access points have signs marked not to follow.) I’m not gonna tell anyone to follow them, but I will tell you there are some nice places to enter the stream (when safe), and to my knowledge there is no kind of enforcement or land ownership in this area. Speaking of extra trails, there are also some nice places along the park access road (before the park) to jump and swim as well – from them you can follow more of the trail network. In those places, however, you may run into local folks who aren’t so happy to see you there. I’d advise being respectful (if they wanted to swim with a throng of visitors, they’d be jumping with their show-off buddies at the foot bridge.)

On the road through ‘Iao Valley, and before the State Park there is also the Kepaniwai Park Heritage Gardens. The gardens memorialize the multicultural history of Maui, with buildings and gardens representing Hawaiian, American missionary, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Korean, and Filipino cultures. The gardens were restored in 1994, and are a nice place to stroll around, and have a picnic lunch.

Next door to the Kepaniwai Park Gardens is the Hawai’i Nature Center. Unfortunately the museum has been permanently closed to walk-in visitors.

Key Info:
Location: End of Iao Valley Rd (extension of Main St aka Hwy 320)
GPS Coordinates: 20.880576,-156.545166
Facilities: Bathrooms. (Kepaniwai Park just before the park has sheltered picnic tables & BBQ’s)
Get directions


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